
Cambodia and Vietnam, side by side on the map, offer two distinct rhythms within a single trip: Cambodia’s spiritual stillness around the temples of Angkor, and Vietnam’s kinetic energy stretching from the Mekong Delta to the ancient streets of Hanoi. Linked together — and connected in the middle by a slow float down the Mekong River — the combination gives travelers both the monuments and the momentum. The best window to go is January through April, when much of the region sits in its cooler, drier season, with clear skies for temple-hopping and calm water for cruising.
We just returned from another wonderful SE Asia, one of our favorite areas of the world. Rather than recap our trip, I thought it might be helpful to understand what an itinerary could look for yourself. If you can, do NOT go in August like we did. This is a time of year when we can get away for several weeks. Bali is perfect weather in August, but above the equator, the weather is hotter and stickier. Jan-April best for Cambodia, Vietnam, Thailand, and Laos.
Take a look at my recommended itinerary.
Siem Reap (2 nights) — Gateway to Angkor
Siem Reap exists almost entirely in service of one thing: Angkor, the sprawling archaeological park of temples built by the Khmer Empire between the 9th and 15th centuries. Angkor Wat itself is the best known, but the surrounding complex holds dozens of others, from the tree-swallowed ruins of Ta Prohm to the carved faces of Bayon — some fully restored, some still emerging from the jungle. Sunrise at Angkor Wat is the classic move, but a private guide can route around the crowds and build a day (or two) that includes lesser-visited temples as well.
- Sunrise here is magical.
- Our wonderful guide, Seng.
- You can climb up to the top of the temple.
- Inside the tower with places to pray and meditate.
- At the “Tomb Raider” temple
- It feels surreal to experience this untouched temple in person.
- I feel truly blessed to have visited the marvels at Angkor Wat.
Two very different luxury stays anchor this leg:
- Park Hyatt Siem Reap — a restored 1930s art deco property in the heart of town, redesigned by Bill Bensley, with two pools and easy walking access to the local nightlife. This is where we stayed.
- Amansara — the former residence of King Norodom Sihanouk, a 1960s New Khmer-style compound with just 24 suites, many with private plunge pools, offering a quieter, more insular alternative just outside the town center. This is where I would stay for a truly luxe experience.
Phnom Penh (2 nights) — Riverside History
Once considered off the beaten path, Phnom Penh has come into its own — safe, walkable, and set directly on the confluence of the Mekong and Tonlé Sap rivers. Highlights include the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, the sobering history at the genocide museums of Tuol Sleng and the Killing Fields, and a riverside promenade lined with cafes and colonial-era architecture. It’s also a genuinely good food city, from fine dining to the storied Foreign Correspondents’ Club. We also did a wonderful food tour with Lost Plate Tours.
- The Royal Palace
- Treasures inside the National Museum
- Khmer architecture of the National Museum
- Outside Tuol Sleng, a former Khmer Rouge prison, now a genocide museum.
- One of the barred windows at Tuol Sleng
- Photos inside Tuol Sleng. This is a very sombering and difficult museum.
- A curry we tried on our Lost Plate food tour
- It comes with fresh herbs and more to add as desired.
- The last stop on our food tour
Two standout options for a luxury stay:
- Raffles Hotel Le Royal — a colonial-era landmark with a romantic, old-Indochine atmosphere, the famed Elephant Bar, and a genuine sense of history throughout. This is where we stayed. Absolutely wonderful for those who love historic hotels.
- Rosewood Phnom Penh — occupying the top floors of the Vattanac Capital Tower, with sweeping river and city views, eight dining venues, and a rooftop bar ranked among Asia’s best.
- The Elephant Bar
- King Room Pool View Raffles
- Raffles pool view from our room
- Welcome amenities
- Breakfast noodles
- Dim sum option at breakfast
Aqua Mekong Cruise, Phnom Penh to Saigon (3 nights)
Rather than flying between Cambodia and Vietnam, a river passage aboard the Aqua Mekong turns the transit itself into one of the trip’s highlights. The ship’s 20 suites feature floor-to-ceiling windows over the ever-changing river scenery, and dining draws on a concept developed with a Michelin-starred consulting chef. Days are built around excursions to delta villages, markets, temples, and craft workshops — often accompanied by the onboard chef for market visits and hands-on cooking demonstrations — with a private fleet of launch boats used for shore excursions. It’s a genuinely immersive way to watch the landscape shift from Cambodia into Vietnam.
- Aqua Mekong boat, 40 passengers max.
- The beautiful lounge on board.
- One bbq dinner served outside as we passed under a bridge
- I loved all the soups
- The Lovers House, a stop on one of our excursions. Gorgeous.
- Inside the house
- Also inside
- A temple visited during an excursion.
- Inside that temple
- Another excursion to a local market. The chef purchased crabs from this lady.
- interesting fish at the market
- so much beautiful produce.
- A cooking demonstration by the ship’s chef after our market visit.
- We learned how to make Bahn Xeo, a savory crepe. YUM
- lunch post demonstration.
- Quite possibly the best bahn mi of our trip. The food onboard was incredible.
- Another excursion to a fruit farm.
- We tried various fruits and also some rice whiskey.
- Not everyone was brave enough to try the durian. I tried it… the trick is NOT to smell it as you eat it.
- We met this family working during one of our excursions.
- And passed many happy dogs.
- We absolutely loved our first cruise experience. I think we are spoiled for future ones.
Saigon (2 nights) — Ho Chi Minh City in Motion
Saigon (officially Ho Chi Minh City) is a jolt of energy after the slower pace of the river — a dense, layered city of French colonial buildings, rooftop bars, motorbike traffic, and a fast-evolving food and cocktail scene. The Cu Chi Tunnels and War Remnants Museum offer a look at the country’s more recent history, while Ben Thanh Market and the city’s rooftop lounges show its present-day pace. This was our 2nd stay here. I noticed a remarkable change from our 2017 visit in terms of modernity. There is still so much energy to this city, but it feels much more hip and design-forward now.
- View from our room. So much fun to watch the city.
- A perfect lunch.
Two luxury anchors here:
- Park Hyatt Saigon — a French Colonial-era building near the Opera House, with an expansive lobby, garden pool, and a lounge known for live music in the evenings. Our stay this time.
- The Reverie Saigon — the city’s tallest hotel, with an opulent, Italian-designed interior and panoramic floor-to-ceiling views. Where we stayed in 2017.
- Park Hyatt pool
- Our room at Park Hyatt with a view over the city.
- great bathroom design
- Lobby lounge with high tea and live music in the evenings
- Gorgeous art throughout the hotel
- Fabulous breakfast
Hoi An (3 nights) — Ancient Town and Coastline
A UNESCO World Heritage town on Vietnam’s central coast, Hoi An is best explored on foot — lantern-lit streets, centuries-old merchant houses, tailor shops, and a slower pace than either Saigon or Hanoi. It also sits near some of the country’s best beaches, making it a natural spot to slow down mid-trip.
- Hoi An is world famous for the excellent tailors.
- Inside Tuong Tailor
- Wia at Tuong Tailor created a custom travel capsule wardrobe.
- We also had items made at Yaly Couture.
- Making friends with bartenders, again.
- Nü Eatery
- Best pork buns at Nü Eatery
- Miss Ly’s
- Miss Ly’s
- Fresh grilled pork spring rolls at Miss Ly’s
- White Rose dumplings Miss Ly’s
- Bahn Mi Phuong (where Bourdain ate)
- Yum…
- Sunrise on Danang beach
- Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai, Hoi An — a garden of standalone villas with private pools, set on the coast a short drive from the old town.
- InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort— another Bill Bensley design, built into a private peninsula with a pristine beach, Michelin-starred dining, and villas with sweeping sea views.
- The pool at the Four Seasons
- Bar at Four Seasons
- Wecome gifts
- Outdoor shower in our villa
- Made it out for the sunrise
- My daily breakfast pho. YUM
- Each villa gets a pair of bikes
- Jamie contemplating his next bahn mi variety.
Hanoi (2 nights) — Old Quarter and Legacy
The trip closes in Hanoi, a city of lakes, pagodas, and a dense, atmospheric Old Quarter — French colonial boulevards next to centuries-old temples and some of the country’s best street food. It’s a fitting final stop before heading home, with a slower, more historic feel than Saigon’s pace. We did not make it to Hanoi this last trip but it is worth adding. I loved our time here in 2017. If you can spare a couple more days, then also add on an overnight cruise in Halong Bay. Absolutely stunning locale.
- Halong Bay
- Our family in 2017
- Capella Hanoi — an opera-themed art deco property on Hoan Kiem Lake, intimate and design-driven, with standout dining and spa.
- Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi — a historic colonial hotel in the French Quarter, complete with a wartime bunker tour and one of the city’s most storied afternoon teas.
The Food
Across both countries, food is reason enough for the trip. In Cambodia, expect fish amok (a steamed curry) and beef lok lak alongside French-influenced fine dining in Phnom Penh. In Vietnam, the regional differences are part of the story — northern pho and bún chả in Hanoi, Hoi An’s cao lầu noodles, and Saigon’s dense street-food scene of bánh mì, broken rice, and rooftop cocktail bars. The Mekong cruise adds a hands-on layer, with chef-led market visits and cooking demonstrations built into the excursions.
The People
Both countries reward slowing down. Guides throughout the region tend to bring genuine warmth and often surprising humor to their storytelling, and small, unstaged moments — a shoe-washing ritual back on the boat, a market vendor explaining a fruit you’ve never seen, a monk’s blessing over dinner — tend to stay with travelers longer than the monuments themselves.
Best Time to Visit
January through April is the sweet spot for this route: the dry season across both countries brings cooler mornings, sunny days, and calm water for the Mekong cruise. April can run hot in the south — Saigon and Phnom Penh especially — but is still workable, particularly for travelers looking to avoid peak crowds at Angkor.
Day-by-Day Itinerary
Day 1 — Arrive Siem Reap
Arrive and settle into Siem Reap. Depending on flight timing, ease in with a stroll through the Old Market and Pub Street, or relax by the pool ahead of an early start the next morning.
Day 2 — Angkor Wat & Temples of Angkor
Rise before dawn for sunrise at Angkor Wat, then continue on to Bayon’s carved stone faces and the jungle-reclaimed ruins of Ta Prohm. Afternoon free to rest, swim, or visit the Angkor National Museum before an evening at leisure in Siem Reap.
Day 3 — Siem Reap to Phnom Penh
Fly to Phnom Penh (roughly a 45-minute flight). Afternoon at leisure to explore the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, or walk the riverside promenade.
Day 4 — Phnom Penh: History & River City
A guided day taking in Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and the Killing Fields at Choeung Ek, balanced with lighter exploration of the city’s markets and colonial-era streets. Evening at the Foreign Correspondents’ Club or a rooftop bar overlooking the Mekong.
Day 5 — Embark the Aqua Mekong
Transfer to the pier and board the Aqua Mekong. Settle into your suite as the ship departs Phnom Penh, with an orientation and welcome dinner onboard.
Day 6 — Mekong Delta Villages
A full day of excursions into delta life — floating markets, riverside villages, and craft workshops — using the ship’s private launch boats. Evening back onboard for dinner as the ship continues toward the Vietnam border.
Day 7 — Chef-Led Market Visit & Cooking Demonstration
Join the onboard chef for a visit to a local market, followed by a hands-on cooking demonstration back on the ship. Afternoon excursion to a temple or village along the river, with the ship crossing into Vietnamese waters.
Day 8 — Disembark in Saigon
Arrive in Saigon and disembark after breakfast. Afternoon at leisure to explore Ben Thanh Market or check in and unwind before dinner in the city.
Day 9 — Saigon: City & History
A guided day covering the Cu Chi Tunnels and the War Remnants Museum, paired with a look at Saigon’s French colonial landmarks — the Notre-Dame Cathedral, Central Post Office, and Reunification Palace. Evening at a rooftop bar taking in the skyline.
Day 10 — Saigon to Hoi An
Fly to Da Nang and transfer to Hoi An (or your coastal resort). Afternoon at leisure to settle in — by the pool, on the beach, or wandering into town for an early look at the ancient quarter.
Day 11 — Hoi An Ancient Town
Explore Hoi An’s UNESCO-listed old town on foot: the Japanese Covered Bridge, centuries-old merchant houses, and the tailor shops the town is famous for. Return at dusk as lanterns light up the streets along the river.
Day 12 — Coastal Day / Countryside
A day to slow down — time at the beach or resort, or an optional excursion into the surrounding countryside (rice paddies, a cooking class, or a boat trip on the Thu Bon River).
Day 13 — Hoi An to Hanoi
Fly to Hanoi. Afternoon at leisure to explore Hoan Kiem Lake and the edges of the Old Quarter near your hotel.
Day 14 — Hanoi Old Quarter
A guided walk through the Old Quarter’s 36 streets, the Temple of Literature, and (depending on the property) a hotel-led wartime bunker tour. Farewell dinner featuring Hanoi’s signature street food, elevated for the occasion.
Day 15 — Depart Hanoi
Transfer to the airport for departure flights home. OR add on 2 more days in order to experience the magical Halong Bay before departing.



















































































































Comments