Marrakech: A FEAST FOR ALL THE SENSES

Morocco

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I was surprised by how many friends and family members seemed puzzled when I mentioned we were headed to Marrakech in late October. Turns out, many had heard the name but didn’t know its North African location. I think it first appeared on my radar in the early 90s when I watched Ab Fab’s Eddy and Patsy fumble and bumble their way through the city. It seemed truly a far-flung exotic locale, the kind of place surely Indiana Jones tussled with some bad guys.

However, while Marrakech still feels extremely exotic, the flight distance has been greatly shortened given United Airlines new 6.5 hour non-stop from New York three times per week, the first US airline to offer this. Honestly, you could even make this a long weekend destination if you live in the NYC area.

We were lucky enough to experience the UA inaugural flight on October 24th. Lots of hoopla surrounding these inaugural flights, especially at the arrival airport: red carpet treatment, dignitaries, the press, and warm welcomes all around. It is a party from departure to arrival.

The heart of the Marrakech is the Medina, a maze of jumbled narrow lanes, somewhat car-free but certainly no less congested with motorbikes zipping in and around the pedestrians and mule-drawn carts running through as well, forcing everyone to hug the walls in more narrow alleyways. It feels soooo incredibly alive… it’s almost difficult to process everything you are seeing, smelling, and experiencing.

Inside the Medina, you will see carts filled with verdant bunches of fresh mint; locals dressed in caftans lined up at a stand for warm griddled flatbreads or freshly pressed pomegranate juice; souks filled with piles of tanned leather hides ready to be auctioned off; perfumeries emitting aromas of oud, amber, and orange blossom as you pass; vibrant rugs hanging along the wall, with ever more hand-loomed treasures piled up inside the shop behind them; spice stalls with overflowing bags of fragrant ginger, cumin, and ras el hanout, courtyards filled with fabulously colorful pottery and sharing space with a shoemaker crafting gorgeous moroccan slippers in every hue imaginable, and another artisan pounding out intricately designed metal lanterns nearby; and CATS, all shapes and colors of cats, cats sitting on motorbike seats, doorways, windowsills, basically EVERYWHERE, cats, cats, and more cats… several waiting outside the butcher’s stall, looking bored… indifferent, but you know… you know that they know exactly what they’re waiting and hoping for.  Here, in the center of the city, you can find LIFE in all of its embodiments.

Eventually, however, one is overwhelmed and compelled to escape the chaos and vitality, easily attainable by entering one of the many beautifully designed gardens hidden behind the nondescript exterior walls of the riads and palaces. A riad is basically a small boutique hotel, three or more floors in height, with an inner courtyard garden. From their unembellished exteriors, one cannot imagine the enchanting interiors found within. The result is magical: one feels they are entering an oasis as the hectic sounds of the medina are replaced with chirping birds and trickling water from the fountains. This effect is feasible due to the architectural design: the tall, thick windowless outer walls of the riads block out the noise, while only inner windows face the center garden.

The rooftop terraces of many riads allow for a sunset apertif overlooking the twinkling lights of the city while listening to the calls to prayer. Each riad is unique and holds it’s own charm. Many are foreign owned by designers so you can expect to be wowed. We’ve stayed at two, 72 Riad and Riad Noir d’Ivroire, both of them very different yet beautifully designed and peaceful. I can highly recommend them both.

Sunset from rooftop at 72 Riad

You can also escape to other areas of the city for beautiful oasis-like resorts. For opulent luxury, look at the Royal Mansour, Oberoi, Aman… or further out, Richard Branson’s resort Kasbah Tamadot in the Atlas Mountains. There are so many amazing places to choose from… there is even a new Nobu hotel near the Medina which is receiving accolades. Just decide on a budget and the world, at least here, is your oyster.

what to see

  • Dar El Bacha: lovely palace museum with exhibits in medina with beautiful mosaics and a special coffee shop inside. We purchased tickets ahead of time with a guide here. The guide showed us around the Medina and souks afterwards. You could add on Medersa Ben Youssef to the tour.
  • Medersa Ben Youssef: restored scholarly college from the 1500s; gorgeous architectural design, gorgeous mosaics. A must see.
  • Le Jardin Secret: Another must see former palace. Amazing garden, architecture, and mosaics. Two cafes and a lovely gift shop inside as well.

    Jardin Secret inside the Medina

  • Jardin Majorelle: torn on recommending this. It is very beautiful but it has become such a hot spot for instagrammers. Super long lines and difficult to enjoy due to the crowds. Try to book ahead for opening slot at 8:30 am.
  • YSL museum: a must for fashion/design devotees.
  • Bahia Palace: Another day, another gorgeous yet crowded palace to see. Definitely worth hiring a guide.
  • Jemaa el Fnaa: the giant square crowded square with food stalls, snake charmers, and entertainers. Comes alive at night. Best to see with a guide or it gets a bit insane with pushy sellers. Tip: find a rooftop bar for some great shots of the square and Koutoubia Mosque at sunset and night with all the lights. Eric Rubens, an amazing photographer who shoots prestigious campaigns for United Airlines, BMW, Four Seasons, among others, clued me in on the one he found to be a good vantage point to get the stalls and the mosque: Le Grand Balcon du Cafe Glacier. Unfortunately, I didn’t make it there so you only get to see my ground level shot.

    Jemaa el Fnaa at night

  • Souks: think of these as markets for specialized artisans. There is a souk for leather, shoes, gold, carpets, gold, and spices. It is a good idea to hire a guide to help you navigate these. Bargaining is expected.
  • Koutoubia Mosque: The largest mosque in Marrakech. Only external visits allowed. Near Jemaa el Fnaa.

    Koutoubia Mosque

what to do

  • cooking class: we did a marvelous one at Dar Les Cigognes where we learned to make cous cous from scratch. After I found out Yotam Ottolenghi and Paula Wolfert were alums, I immediately signed us up. The class included a trip to the market, followed by a VERY hands-on class. We made a tagine, several vegetable side dishes, and the best cous cous of my life. The manager and chef were so much fun… we cooked and laughed for several hours together. Afterwards, we enjoyed our meal on their rooftop with a glass of wine. HIGHLY RECOMMEND.
  • guided tour of the Medina, souks, and sights: we had good luck with a guide from Nomad and also with a younger guide from withlocals.com, Omar.

    Our guide Omar

  • shopping: You can hire a guide specifically for shopping in the Medina… very helpful. For high quality furniture, antiques, rugs, and home decor, check out Mustapha Blaoui. For clothing, I bought several beautiful items from Topolina Medina. I found Medina Experiences to be a very helpful store because it is fixed price so you get an idea what price to aim for at the shops without prices. I’ve also bought a few items from here as well, and they still gave me an additional discount, wrapped up everything, and delivered to my hotel. Spices, fragrances, and argan oil make excellent and packable gifts.
  • food tour: We participated in a decent one through Viator which started from Jamaa el Fnaa. We tried a lot of different street foods, olives, fresh juices, tagine, an amazing roasted lamb. We also visited a spice market where I bought several spices to take home. Here is their link.
  • Motorcycle sidecar tour: OMG you MUST do this one!!! So. Much. Fun. Getting to ride in a sidecar has always been something I wanted to do. And in Marrakech… the cherry on top!! Our guide Benjamin from Insiders Marrakech was fabulous, both as a driver and a guide. It was more akin to visiting a super cool friend who lives in a fabulous location, and having them take you around to show you all the non-touristy sites. LOVED getting to see several abandoned French art deco buildings. We drove through Gueliz, the new city, and out into the Palmerae and desert area outside of Marrakech. He also drove us through the medina. Our favorite tour!!
  • Learn and create fragrances: Michelle Gonzalez from Lax to Luxury, an incredibly LOVELY human being as well as luxury travel expert, posted on IG about visiting the Museum of Perfume and a shop around the corner where she spent time creating several scents. I only saw her recommendation after we left which made me so sad… I need to go back! You can find her recs here. And then check out her other posts and tips. It’s like having a cool, stylish friend who always knows the best places to book.
  • experience a hamman: I will admit… I still need to do this. I had very good intentions, BOTH trips, but chickened out in the end. I’m shy… I’m worried about pain. But everyone who does it says it is great. So don’t be me… seize life and try it!
  • day-pass for lunch, pool, and/or spa at a luxury resort: Royal Mansour, The Oberoi, Sofitel, El Fenn, Mandarin Oriental are just a few which offer this wonderful option.
  • day-trip to the Atlas Mountains: We did this with a Berber guide, Brahim. He showed us many beautiful places. We hiked to some waterfalls. We had lunch at his parents home… never pass an opportunity such as this! Connect with real people around the world. This makes the world smaller and more beautiful. On our way back, we stopped at Kasbah Tamadot, Richard Branson’s resort. OMG… gorgeous. Enjoyed a cocktail near the pool, reflecting on the beauty of the hotel, pool, mountains, Morocco, and the world. Jamie was VERY happy that the gift shop was closed on our way out. Darn it… looked like a good shop!
  • day-trip to Essouria: we did not do this but I’ve heard it’s nice. And it usually includes a stop where you see those goats that hang out in trees. Don’t know what I’m talking about? Google it.
  • day-trip or overnight in the desert: another activity we did not do. But I’ve had friends gush over it. You stay in luxury tents, a billion stars above you… sounds dreamy. Obviously I need to go back for research purposes.

where to eat

  • Bacha Coffee: gorgeous cafe known for wonderful coffee inside Dar El Bacha museum. This place gets packed so best to hire a guide, arrive before museum opens at 10 am and hit the cafe first. OR, put your name down for 45 minutes later and see the museum first before the crowds arrive.

    The lovely interior of Cafe Bacha

  • Oban at Riad Noir d’Ivoire: the restaurant at our most recent riad stay. Probably the best meal of our trip. They will pick you up in a golf cart if staying elsewhere. Fabulous wines as well. Thursdays through Sundays there is live music.
  • Terrasses des Epices: fabulous rooftop restaurant in the Medina. Very popular so book in advance. There is a bar here as well. It can be difficult to find. You enter through a shopping center, look for the elevator or stairs to the restaurant. Also, visit the gift shop on the 2nd floor; fabulous finds/fixed prices.
  • La Table du Riad: the restaurant at 72 Riad from our first stay in Marrakech. We liked it so much, we dined here for lunch on most recent visit. You can choose to sit in garden or on rooftop. Wonderful food and good wines.
  • Cafe Arabe: restaurant on main floor; bar/restaurant on roof top. Fun vibe, good food and drinks. Good for lunch or book ahead for dinner.
  • Dar Marjana: We dined here our first trip. Beautiful palatial interior and includes live music and belly dancing. The food and wine were both excellent. They also have a rooftop bar for pre or post cocktail.
  • Comptoir Darna: Apparently THE place for Moroccan nightlife, belly dancing, and live music. We booked for our recent trip but canceled as we had a 10:30 seating and we were too tired. Entertainment starts around 9 pm so book several weeks in advance for a prime seating time OR attempt to show up for drinks at the bar.
  • Grand Cafè de la Poste: Gueliz French bistro giving off Casablanca vibes. We enjoyed a pleasant lunch.
  • Vita Nova: simple Italian trattoria in Gueliz with good pasta and pizza, recommended by our French tour guide Benjamin. No decor to speak of but there is a patio, and it was nice to dine among expat locals instead of tourists.
  • L’Asiatique at La Mamounia: Jean George restaurant. We dined here for dinner and while fun to go here to see the hotel, I think you can dine better elsewhere. Food was good, not amazing. Service was impersonal verging on cool.
  • Les Jardins de la Medina: hotel on outskirts of Medina with large garden courtyard restaurant with live music. Lovely.
  • the restaurants below I have not tried BUT came recommended by several good sources. The first 3 do not serve alcohol, fyi.
  • Nomad
  • Sahbi Sahbi
  • Le Jardin
  • Petanque Social Club
  • +61
  • Sesamo at Royal Mansour

 

where to drink

  • Cafe Arabe nice rooftop bar; also good pizza and food
  • Charlie’s Bar: inside Riad Noir d’Ivoire; LOVE this bar. Francky plays the piano and sings Thursday to Sundays.
  • Churchill Bar: oh, we had a real f*cking good time here. Pardon the French. There’s a funny story there, one best shared in person. Over a martini or negroni.
  • El Fenn rooftop bar  Owned by Vanessa Branson. Gorgeous riad, gorgeous bar.
  • Terrasses des Epices rooftop bar
  • Petanque Social Club outside the Medina, in Gueliz. We planned to go but it didn’t work out. Hope to get there next time. Nice garden, too.

 

where to stay

Below are two riads where we have stayed. Both are lovely with a restaurant and bar. Riad Noir had a great bar plus live entertainment. 72 Riad had two rooftop terraces with nice views. You can’t go wrong with either, and definitely enjoy a dinner at either of them in order to experience the allure.

  • 72 Riad: Beautifully designed riad in the medina. Excellent restaurant and rooftop pool with wonderful views of the city. Lovely courtyard garden. We stayed in the Deluxe XL room, with a small living space when you enter the room, then steep stairs up to the bedroom. Kind of a funky layout, we didn’t make use of the living space so don’t think it was worth the upgrade. Bathrooms and beds were excellent.
  • Riad Noir d’Ivoire: We really enjoyed 72 Riad our first visit so initially decided to book there again. But then decided it would be fun to check out another riad. So glad we did because this was a special place. The rooftop and view wasn’t as nice as 72 Riad, but the bar and restaurant were better, plus the owner Steve was a hoot. And there is also Francky who sings and plays the piano there several nights per week… plus the entire staff could NOT have been nicer. Rooms are large and comfortable. B&O speakers in every room! There is also a library, indoor pool/jacuzzi, hamman, spa, and an extensive wine cellar. Everything one needs for a comfortable getaway.

Like I said earlier, there are also amazing luxury resort options outside of the medina. So look into those as well. There are sooooo many options for a wonderful stay in basically every budget.

I also wanted to add a few photos from the gala we attended at La Mamounia hotel for the United Airlines inaugural flight. It was such a magical evening so I thought it would be fun to include a few.

Thanks to this new route, Northern Africa is as accessible, if not MORE so, than many European destinations. Hope to get back there soon!

 

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