Day 15: April 16, 2024

Two weeks and I feel like today something has changed with my language comprehension. Perhaps a break through? I still can’t understand a lot BUT… I don’t feel the same struggle or panic when I listen or speak. And my sense of humor has arrived while speaking… somehow. And I think maybe I am funnier in Italian because I receive smiles and laughter. Probably not… more likely they are finding humour (I prefer the British spelling honestly) in my molto molto MOLTISSIMO mistakes. Even so, I will carry on. I am learning to be content with making mistakes. There is absolutely no other way to get better. In this or truly… in anything in life. Vero?!

Jamie pointed out to me that I haven’t updated this blog in a week. He is correct. But the days have flown by, and I’m not spending much time in the apartment. When I am here, there is studying, laundry, and sleeping to be done, plus now stretching and exercises to relieve some hip pain I’m feeling from all the walking. Oye. I’m living in the Jewish Ghetto right now so I can officially say oye.

I visited Florence on Saturday. It is only 2 hours 15 minutes via the fast train. The earlier you book the train, the cheaper it is. Round trip ticket was 80 euros in executive class in the quiet car which was basically empty. I made the mistake of reserving seats facing backwards in both directions. Oopsie. But the seats were VERY comfortable and reclining. And it came with drinks and snacks. I napped very comfortably going there thank GOD as I woke before 5 am.

The Uffizi Galleries were packed. I booked my time slot the week before and it was nice to bypass the ticket office line. I spent one and a half happy hours looking at breathtaking Italian Renaissance art. After that, both my eyes and feet began to inform me of their displeasure. Time to exit.

The crowds were even greater outside. I don’t remember this level of tourist crowds back in 2006, my last visit here. 18 years… no??!!  But alas, it is true. I had VERY young boys back then. Now they are men. Oye. Where to dine alone for lunch. My feet insist on someplace close. My heart insists on something not too touristy. I decide to NOT consult Google reviews this time, perhaps it will be a mistake… I remember a side street from years past where perhaps I may find something authentic. C’mon feet. C’mon hips. You got this. I pass the horse-drawn carriages. Uh oh. Keep walking. I see a nicely painted establishment that specializes in truffles. Mangiafoco Osteria Tartuferia. It is still early so there are empty tables outside. And then I spot an adorable piccolo table built into a large open window there. All by itself, begging for me to sit there. It would be the perfect Jamie and Amy spot, but today there is only Amy. I peek inside and ask, ok not ask per se but make some hand signs to the bartender, “Can I sit here?” He smiles and nods. A good sign. Well, friends… it was the start of a PERFECT solo lunch. The staff was so kind and seemed genuinely happy when they saw how much I enjoyed the food. I owned that window and behind sunglasses was secretly enjoying the envious looks of the passersby. Lunch was paccheri alla carbonara con tartufo, small tubes of pasta with carbonara sauce and white truffles shaved over the top. Heavenly. Last meal good. White wine, Vernaccia di San Gimignano. And an espresso after. Mamma Mia.

Afternoon activities included a visit to the Palazzo Pitti and Boboli Gardens. YES in all caps to the Palazzo. My goodness, the wealth and the beauty here is hard to comprehend. But…Meh to the gardens. My opinion, but it was very hot, fa caldo, a lot of uphill walking, and way too short on flower gardens. I exited near the top of the gardens to walk down the hill through the historical area. More pleasant and shady. A young family with a stroller asked me, in Italian, where a museum was. I said I wasn’t sure, IN Italian no less, but I had seen a sign uphill where I had come from. They thanked me and headed uphill. 5 minutes later, DOWNHILL,  I came across said museum. Oopsie. Mi dispiace. Sorry nice family.

I planned to do a little shopping. I remember from past visits that Florence has good shopping opportunities. But the crowds and my legs, now at 17k steps, changed my mind. A nice sit with l’acqua frizzante and a beer was quite nice. The waiter accidentally spilled my beer, luckily NOT on me, sadly YES on him. As an apology, he brought me a beautiful board with several slices of focaccia loaded with roasted vegetables, sausage, and cheese on the house. Umm… that looks like dinner. He wrapped it up for me to take with me, the perfect picnic for the return train home. Home? I mean Venice. But after the craziness of Florence, it does feel like home and I am anxious to return.

Sunday was fairly quiet. I met Giovanni and his friends at Caffe Levena in Piazza San Marco for a coffee. This cafe is gorgeous. The staff all know Giovanni so one feels like a celebrity when with him. Ahhhh…  It is the same wherever he takes us. Caffe Florian. Yep, they’ve heard of him. We don’t wait in the queue to enter. Harry’s Bar. Yep. Giovanni is the mayor, no… make that the Fonzi of Venice. Jamie and I have learned it’s ALWAYS a good thing (to quote Martha Stewart) to make friends with bartenders around the world. You never know where that will take you.

An afternoon of studying and then dinner with my newly adopted German son Felix at the restaurant next to my apartment, Pan and Ogio, where I have become a regular for afternoon study sessions with espresso. This is my first time dining there and it does not disappoint. Delicioso. Molto delicioso. So much so, I returned Monday evening to dine solo. The owner, Leo, is kind, and helps me with my Italian. He also throws some freebies towards me as well. Wine and grappa freebies. Again, there is never a downside with making friends with people in the hospitality business. Plus, as often is the case, they will be the most fun and interesting kind of people as well.

Ciao for now. Thank you to all who reach out with encouragement. I appreciate it SO much! Click on page 7 below for the next entry.