Just back from a week in Colombia with friends. Bogota, Medellin (yep!), and Cartagena. I think I’ve wanted to visit ever since watching Romancing the Stone in the 80s. It is a richly diverse country with several mountain ranges, tropical rainforests, Caribbean islands, and vibrant cities. Plus, safety concerns have improved over the past 20 years.

It was a little difficult deciding which area to visit because there are sooooo many cool and beautiful places. Plus one week to squeeze in everything is not easy and  meant we were mostly on the go. Not a problem, but a totally different vacation from last year’s chill week in Milos, Greece together.

Every city has it’s own colorful identity. Bogota is the largest and I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. One friend loves it and said it almost feels European, with cooler temps and old architecture in the center. The altitude here is 8600 feet above sea level which is actually higher than Machu Picchu. A Colombian acquaintance suggested I skip it, with his nose wrinkled in distaste as he spoke. He rhapsodized over the merits of Medellin, so we added it to the itinerary. Once the most dangerous city in the world during the Cartel era, now considered safer than Chicago. And, our final stop… Cartagena. We knew it would be the most touristy location of the three, but we had to see this beautiful tropical city nevertheless.

One surprise was the scarcity of spoken English in each location visited. We actually enjoyed this aspect even as it forced us to work a little more on our limited Spanish, plus the Colombians were extremely friendly despite a language barrier. 

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SIDENOTE: DELTA ONE AT JFK!

Jamie could not believe our luck in timing. The new Delta One lounge opened only three days prior to our flight to Bogota. He toured it earlier that week and proclaimed it even better than Cathay Pacific’s FC lounge, The Pier, in HK. I’m a big fan of that one, so D1 had much to live up to. 

We arrived several hours early to explore and enjoy the new space. It truly is wonderful. I loved all the art exhibited. The atrium is a beautiful space. Dining in the restaurant was akin to dining in a trendy NYC restaurant. This is a special treat for those traveling in Delta business class on an international or transcon flight to/from JFK.

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Bogota

Only a 6 hour flight and a 1 hour time difference from New York! Easy peasy. We took an afternoon flight on Delta from JFK followed by a relatively easy drive from the airport to La Candelaria neighborhood where our hotel was located. It was pouring rain so we were all glad we packed raincoats. Chilly too — high 50s in late June.

We packed in a lot during our two days in Bogota.  I liked the city a lot, especially the neighborhoods of La Candelaria with it’s old colonial architecture; Zona G (Zona Gourmet), an upscale area known for its trendy restaurants; and Usaquen, where there is a great artisan weekend market, good shopping, and some cool bars and restaurants.

Hotel

The Orchids Hotel

Small boutique and eclectic inn located in the historical center, La Candelaria. At night, you have to ring the bell to be let in. One evening it took a few rings before our young tired porter opened the door. Beds were super comfortable and our deluxe rooms were huge with high ceilings, antiques, and large windows with heavy wooden shutters which wonderfully blocked out all light in the mornings. We had to shower quickly because the hot water appeared to be limited. Breakfast could be a bit slow. The location, however is fantastic. We had considered the Four Seasons in Chapinero neighborhood, and I would probably choose that over The Orchids, but we saved money AND it honestely was fun to stay in the old town. Overall expect charm with quirks.

Restaurants

Prudencia
La Candelaria

Loved, loved, LOVED our Sunday lunch here! My favorite meal of the entire trip. I read about Prudencia in Bon Appetit this year and knew we had to dine here. Chef Mario greeted us at the door, once we finally found the restaurant — there is no signage outside. The place is at once laid-back, homey, not stuffy or pretentious, but also professional and filled with passion. We chose to do the tasting menu with paired wines. Honestly, very reasonably priced, just under $100. Love how they move the diners to a garden table for 2 courses. And this makes such good sense — everyone gets to experience both inside and outside dining experiences, AND watch the outdoor grill in action. Oh, that reminds me… the cooks cleaned the grill grates between courses with a fresh rosemary bouquet… smelled fantastic! HIGHLY recommended.

Castanyoles Four Seasons restaurant
Zona G

Beautiful restaurant inside the luxurious Four Seasons Casa Medina hotel. We started with drinks on the front porch lounge, then moved into the restaurant, finishing the evening with the last sips of wine by the fireplace in the inner courtyard garden. We weren’t blown away by the food but it was still a very lovely experience overall.

Cafe Amarti
Usaquen

Near the Usaquen artisan market. Excellent Italian with a pretty interior as well as a huge outdoor garden atrium. Busy and popular.

Madre
La Candelaria

Cool interior. Wood-fired pizzas, pasta, and Colombian food. Good. Near our hotel.

A Manos Peruanos
La Candelaria

Stopped here for refreshments. Fun interior, good service, food, and drinks.

Bars

Pedro Mandinga Rum Bar
Usaquen

Super cool bar set over several floors. Turntable jazz, craft cocktails, chill vibe. Highly recommend.

Chalett
La Candelaria

One of several chicha bars on this cobblestone street, Carrera 2. Chicha is a corn-based fermented alcoholic beverage that originated in Colombia over 3000 years ago. It is also technically illegal since the 40s, though now the government is viewing its historical role and encouraging a comeback. The chicharias and street vendors offer the beverage in different fruit flavors.

 

Activities

Monserrate

Steep mountain near downtown and historical center. At the top is a church. Great views. One can hike up or choice of funicular or gondola. We took the funicular up and gondola down. Also we made use of the fast pass which greatly helped with the long queues in both directions.

Paloquemao Fruit Market tour

I heard from chef friends about the massive varieties of fruit found in this market, and Colombia in general, so I really wanted a guide to help me learn more. Jamie wasn’t thrilled… he has a thing against fruit. But we both allow for each other’s separate interests as much as possible so he was on board. Really interesting market… massive really and not just fruit but pretty much everything can be found here! We started the tour trying some really interesting breads and a sweet drink made with oats. Next we tried empanadas at a historical cafe, Don Camilo. Yummmmm. Then we explored the fruits. Everything was fantastic. We finished the tour at a cafe, Casona, where we tried the coffee and their delicious hot chocolate. I bought a bag plus one of their pretty handpainted mugs to bring home.

Usaquen Artisan Market
Mercado de las Pulgas

Weekend market with beautiful local handicrafts. Not a typical flea market, this one is more upscale, with hanging umbrellas overhead, in a neighborhood of trendy restaurants, cafes, boutiques, and bars.

La Candelaria

The historical center with gorgeous colonial architecture, cobblestone streets, boutiques, churches, cafes, street performers, and several worthwhile museums. 

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Medellin

Medellin is a hilly, verdant city for the most part, some neighborhoods more green than others. We stayed in El Poblado neighborhood which is considered one of the wealthiest neighborhoods with a vibrant nightlife. I can attest to the latter: the sounds of merriment emanating from the many restaurants and bars lasted into the wee hours.

We had soooo much fun cheering on the Colombian soccer team in a World Cup qualifying game on a street closed to traffic where every single establishment was decked out with the national colors, with large screen tv’s set up for the event, the excitement of the crowd ever so contagious. GOOOOOOOOOAAAAAALLLLLL!!!! Colombia tied with Brazil 1-1, which allowed them to continue. 

Even though Medellin is considered safer than Chicago and Detroit, there are still areas I would be loath to explore. We did, however, spend a few hours touring Comuna 13, the neighborhood formerly controlled by Escobar’s cartel. 18 years ago the government began investing in the infrastructure there, including escalators to help with the frail and disabled residents plus emergency responders navigate this very vertical neighborhood easier. Now the neighborhood is pulsating with life: colorful murals cover concrete walls, talented street performers entertain the tourists, and psychedelic art galleries  gift shops, and bustling cafes beckon one inside to escape the sultry temperatures.

The countryside outside of the city is absolutely spectacular, tall green hills often dotted with fields of fruit or coffee trees. We hired a guide to drive us to Guatape, a beautiful small town about two hours from Medellin. I’ll admit the ride was not that comfortable — in fact none of the vehicles we experienced all week could be considered luxurious. However, it was a very scenic drive and the day-trip was a delightful experience. Near Guatape is a lovely lake area with a mountain-like rock, El Peñol, overlooking it all. One industrious fellow purchased the rock from local farmers in the 1950’s, built steps up the side of the rock — almost 700 to be exact — and now it is a major tourist attraction. The surrounding lake is busy with boats and water activities. And the nearby town is a rainbow-colored delight to walk through.

 Hotel

Marquee Hotel Medellìn
El Poblado

I will admit, I had my doubts when we checked in and I was required to sign a document that we would not bring prostitutes into the hotel. Say what?? But then I also had to sign something similar for a reservation to a nearby Michelin starred restaurant. Despite the upscale neighborhood, there were certain streets near our hotel with young ladies looking for clients, apparently a legal endeavor in certain areas. But I digress, greatly… the hotel is lovely with a rooftop bar and pool and a terrific view of the city. Beds are wonderfully comfortable. And the room came with a sound machine to help with the noise! Delicious breakfasts were included in the room rate. 

Alternative suggestion: The Click Clack Hotel. Same neighborhood, great reviews here as well.

Restaurants

Carmen
El Poblado

Highly ranked restaurant “inspired by Colombia’s regional biodiversity.” We found some of the dishes more inspiring than others. Pretty space. 

Criminal Taqueria
El Poblado, Cra 35

Tacos! Yummy tacos. On one of the neighborhood pedestrian streets. Cheap and good.

Posada Leon
El Poblada, Cra 35

We ate here during the soccer game. I didn’t photograph any food, nor do I recall what I ate BUT service was good and the Google reviews are great. I only remember a VERY entertaining evening spent here. Mexican-Colombian fusion.

Donde Sam
Guatape

No frills place with a slight view of the lake AND… wait for it… Indian food! The owner is Indian. I tried the butter chicken. Yum!!! Everyone else stuck with the Colombian offerings which were also a hit. Our guide recommended it and we agreed with him.

Activities

Comuna 13 tour

Our very young 20 y.o. guide Kevin wasn’t so polished BUT we all highly enjoyed the tour of his neighborhood. Honestly, given the  history, it was pretty special to have a young local guiding us.  This was his neighborhood, his people, and his own personal stories to share. We even met his mother and grandfather along the way. One of the highlights was having drone footage of us at the top of the neighborhood. I’ve never done a tour like this and it was fascinating. Now I need to rewatch Narcos.

Plaza Botero

Park with the largest collection of Botero statues in the world. I love Botero paintings and statues and was very disappointed by a botched visit to his museum in Bogota due to holiday hours on the day we planned. These were great, but one side of the park seemed a bit more sketchy than the otherside so be aware. If you watch Amazing Race, season 36, episode 4, you can see them visit the plaza AND Comuna 13.

Guatape/El Peñol day-trip

Scenic 2 hour drive from Medellin. We hired a driver through the hotel for four of us. The cost was $850,000 COP, roughly $210 USD for a full day. As I mentioned earlier, the sedan wasn’t very spacious or comfortable, but our guide was pleasant, providing us with interesting stories and information along the way. We made a stop midway for a cappuccino at a pleasant cafe. Next stop, El Peñol, the giant rock, which most of us climbed. It wasn’t as difficult as I imagined after watching all the huffing and puffing by the Amazing Race contestants, but of course they were probably sprinting up. Great views at the top PLUS snack bars, a full restaurant, ice cream vendor and a few souvenir shops.  

I was focused more on the lake and giant rock activity of our excursion so the town of Guatape surprised me by how pleasant I found it.. Colorful houses, cobblestone streets. Lots of quaint cafes and boutiques, including some enticing artisan leather shops. The town is famous for its zòcalos, which are raised murals, on all the buildings, depicting the shop business or who lives there. 

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Cartagena

Finally, the cherry on top… Cartagena. Beaches, tropical gardens, a candy-colored historical center, gorgeous sunsets, great restaurants and boutiques, and plenty of live music. The downside? The tourist crowds and the roaming rapping street performers who follow you until you pay them or ignore them long enough that they give up. We never paid so there were some annoying and socially awkward moments the first day. Second day, word seemed to get around that we weren’t playing. Whew…

 

We enjoyed walking around Old Town and Getsemanì, taking in all the sights. Plenty of street performers around the city. All the live music we encountered was fantastic.

We hired a boat and captain to take us to the Rosario Islands for a day. Unfortunately that activity was a bust, and actually, quite scary for a short time. We were on a boat with no radar, no visibility, torrential rain, with thunder and lightning encompassing our immediate vicinity.  One crew member used a life-vest to shield the captain’s face from rain as he slowly navigated us to an island. We were soaked, scared and cold. The rain did subside eventually, but unfortunately we didn’t experience the gorgeous blue waters that is touted here. The crew didn’t speak much English so we felt rather helpless during the thick of it. On a positive note, we lived!  I cannot recommend the tour company despite their good reviews on TripAdvisor.

Hotel

Movich Cartagena de Indias
Old Town

Unfortunately we cannot recommend. We booked the hotel specifically for the rooftop terrace and bar — the highest in Cartagena — to enjoy the sunset each night. When we checked in, reception even encouraged us to see utilize the rooftop for sunset as well. But both nights we stayed here, the rooftop was closed for private events. There were several other mishaps as well. Breakfast service was a disaster. The good: hotel has a beautiful lobby and rooftop terrace (if it is open!), the location is perfect, and the beds and showers are very comfortable.

Restaurants/Bars

Restaurante Celele
Getsemanì

Ranked #16 in Latin America’s Best Restaurants ’23. Incredibly creative dishes, both visually and on the palate. Jaime Rodriquez traveled the country extensively, researching indigenous ingredients and recipes across the country, wanting to keep these foods alive and educate the diners of everything Colombia has to offer. We ordered way too much but I’m glad we had a chance to taste much of the menu. Not everything was a hit, but most courses were outstanding as well as beautiful. The dining room leans on the casual side. No tasting menu (we created our own.) HIGHLY recommended.

Members Only
Old Town

Jazz club/speakeasy in the Townhouse hotel. They serve excellent tapas and sushi as well. Everything about the place was perfect from the service, live music, sound level, chair comfort, food, and cocktails. Reservations accepted. HIGHLY recommended.

Tertulia de Getsemanì
Getsemanì

Gorgeous salsa bar. Unfortunately no live music the evening we visited BUT the playlist and cocktails were perfect and we had the place almost to ourselves, giving plenty of opportunity to take in all of the decor and record covers lining the walls. Sweetest waitress. No food menu but they did offer some type of fried cheese option which more than satisfied until we could secure dinner plans. Highly recommended.

Cafe Havana
Getsemanì

So. Much. FUN!!! Amazing bands. Pricey cover charge for Colombia but well worth it. Despite the crowds inside, as soon as we walked in, one of the bartenders greeted us and found us a table with a great view of the stage. Patrons dance all around the space. Salsa party! Highly recommended.

La Cevicheria
 Old Town

Casual seafood restaurant specializing in you guessed it… ceviche! Anthony Bourdain approved restaurant… very good and interesting ceviches. We enjoyed sitting outside with a street musician playing nearby.

Soloio
Old Town

Restaurant though we only stopped here for cocktails before our reservation at Members Only. The intimate space is lovely — a tropical courtyard with center fountain. Drinks were excellent, and food delivered to surrounding tables looked delicious.

Cafè del Mar
Old Town, on top of the wall

The place everyone recommends for watching the sunset. We headed here after learning our hotel rooftop was closed to us. Unfortunately the line to get in was waaaaay to long to endure. So we grabbed cold beers from a vendor and enjoyed the sunset outside the velvet ropes. Gorgeous whether you make it inside or not, but they do offer reservations on the website.

 

The Clock Pub Cartagena
Old Town

British pub with great people watching if sitting outside OR live music inside.