Keukenhof Gardens are located outside of Amsterdam and only open mid March to mid May. There are 7 million (!!) flower bulbs and 800 varieties of tulips planted here. The place is absolutely gorgeous.  We planned to stay 2 hours and stayed closer to 5! We walked and goggled… one of those rare times where you have to pinch yourself, reminded of the incredible beauty of nature AND the joy of being alive.

It is open from 8 am to 7:30 — try to get there first thing in the morning or towards the end of the day, but plan on a 2+ hour visit as there is much to see here and it is BIG. We arrived at 2:30 on a Saturday and the place was mobbed. BUT, the sun was shining and the scent of hyacinths permeated the air all around us… life is good!  We had hoped to visit Sunday morning but the sunny weather forcasted suddenly changed midday Saturday — now predicting rain and cold — so we ditched a daytrip to Delft and headed instead to Keukenhof. 

If you can visit during the week, even better. Besides the gardens, one can rent bikes nearby and cruise around the surrounding fields. I also saw several restaurants nearby if you want to make a day of it.

Best way to get here? I’ve got differing opinions as it is not straightforward. We were already at Schiphol for our tulip flight, so we bought a combi ticket online from the Keunkenhof site — it included the bus ride — bus 858 — from the airport and entrance ticket. There was a line for the bus, but once it filled up another immediately arrived so rather painless. The location of the bus: exit the airport, make a right and walk all the way to end of the building where you will see a booth for Keukenhof.  DO NOT go across the islands to the location of all the other busses. Keukenhof also provides combi tickets which include the 15 minute train ride to/from Schiphol/Amsterdam. Be warned… we waited in line 30 minutes for the return bus at the park due to the huge line. It seemed everyone else stayed til the park closed as well.

In hindsite, I wish I had just splurged for an Uber straight back to our apartment. Yes… it would have been pricey as it’s a 45 minute drive, but way more convenient, especially for my 82 y.o. mother who was a real trooper to deal with the long wait, 2 transfers and the walk from the train station. However, I’m not sure how many Uber drivers would be in the area as it is a small village. Maybe best to take the bus back to Schiphol and get an Uber there? We paid 28 euros when we took an UberX back to the airport for the flight home.

https://keukenhof.nl/en/

 

DC3 flight over the tulip fields

I can’t remember how I found out about this, but I think it was on the Keukenhof website.  30 minute flight in a historic plane built in the 1940’s and actually flew over Normandy on D-Day to drop paratroopers. Later it joined the Dutch royal fleet. Now it belongs to the Dutch Dakota Airline club.  SUCH an amazing activity — I highly recommend! The views and just the experience of flying this historic plane were worth WAY more than the 130 euro ticket price, in my opinion.

The flight leaves from Schiphol however NOT from the main terminal. Once purchased you are provided with directions to the check-in location — both parking and via bus.  However… we just took an Uber from the main terminal rather than figure out the bus/walk. Easy peasy and dropped right at the building.  Return Uber was just as easy.  FYI, for airline enthusiasts, there is also a McDonald’s located near here — between the KLM flight center and Schiphol — which is ADJACENT to the end of the runway. It’s a very popular spot for plane peepers.

https://www.dutchdakota.nl/

Walking Food Tour of Jordaan

Rijks Museum

This is a large castle-like building which houses Dutch art and historical objects. I took the docent-led highlights tour which is rather short and sweet but it did provide insight into the history and actual architecture of the building which was interesting as well as hitting several paintings and concluding at Rembrandt’s The Night Watch, which is the most famous item in the museum’s collection. It’s possible to buy tickets online to avoid the lines. I added the highlights tour to our tickets for an additional 5 euros. Entrance is a bit strange — enter the tunnel passing through the museum where you will find the revolving doors.

Behind the museum is a small elegant garden. And beyond that lies a green space between the Rijks, Van Gogh, and the Stedelijk museums. We ate at one of the outdoor food vendors before heading to the Van Gogh Museum.

Click here for the Rijks Museum site

Van Gogh Museum

I LOVED this museum, and it was my favorite of the trip. Tickets are purchased online for a timed entry. Right now there is a special exhibition that I found absolutely fascinating — Van Gogh & Japan. Van Gogh never visited Japan but he was greatly inspired by Japanese block prints. Read more in the New York Times review: https://www.nytimes.com/2018/03/26/arts/design/vincent-van-gogh-japan.html

Interior of the lovely Van Gogh museum.

Anne Frank House

Corrie Ten Boom House

Haarlem was a quick and easy train ride from Amsterdam — 15 minutes — and then a quick, pleasant walk into the city center (5 minutes.) Similar to Amsterdam in looks, but with fewer tourists and WONDERFUL shopping — both interesting boutiques and chain stores. Also, TONS of charming restaurants and cafes. Honestly, I’d even consider it as a base camp — we liked it that much. The main square is lovely, anchored by a large church and several other historical buildings, with lots of restaurants lining the perimeter as well. On Mondays and Saturdays there is a large outdoor market held in the square. Streets around the square — radiating in a wheel-spoke fashion — are flush with shops and more restaurants.  I couldn’t believe the number of restaurants here! Not a lot to see in terms of sites — there is a wind mill that can be entered and a couple museums — but it would be a nice place to unwind after the crowds in central Amsterdam, and SO easy to get to.

Shopping

We had fun shopping in both Amsterdam and Haarlem. Actually, we even shopped at Keukenhof — ordered some gorgeous tulips which will be shipped to us in September. We both purchased some Delft items from various boutiques in the Joordan neighborhood and also a cafe in Haarlem. Definitely shop around because prices vary for both handpainted items, antique items, and mass produced items. You’ll decide what you like and what you are willing to pay for it.

I was on the lookout for the KLM houses — small Delft houses filled with Bols (similar to gin) which are based on actual buildings in the Netherlands; they are given to the first class passengers. These are a collectible item — there is even an app to note which houses you own. I found them at a boutique across the canal from the Anne Frank House but they were 39 euros each — more than I was willing to spend. But then I came across them inside an antiques vendor warehouse, still in the Jordaan neighborhood — prices ranged from 7-20 euros for the most part depending on the rarity and condition I suppose. I bought 6 and hope to continue building my collection — preferably via a first class flight.

COS chain was near DAM square and I found 2 lovely tops. Love this store.

Finally, we purchased many food gifts.  No cheese, but lots and lots of sweets! — stroopwafels and chocolate. Stach and Tony’s Chocalonely chocolate were my favorites for chocolate bars. Tony’s has a mission to help end slave labor, so you can feel ethically good by your purchase. You can purchase online in the US — click on the link above. Stach has beautiful wrappers and my favorite flavor — milk chocolate with popcorn and caramel.

The Mouse Mansion

I’ve never seen ANYTHING like this! It’s the most adorable museum, bookstore and art studio filled with incredibly detailed miniaturized scenes of a world of mice. In the Jordaan neighborhood, not too far from the Tulip Museum. Totally worth a quick stop-in EVEN without kids just to enjoy the windows and scenes inside. If you have young children, they will love it — and it’s all behind plexiglass so no worries about them destroying mouse world. Looks like they have studio time for children as well.  No entrance fee. Lots of books based on the Mouse Mansion. http://www.themousemansion.com

RESTAURANTS

De Silveren Spieler

Hummus Bistro d&a

Yum. Yum. YUM! Cute, small and casual restaurant in the Jordaan neighborhood. Hummus obviously the specialty — served with chickpeas, meat, or veggies on top and the BEST flatbread. We tried hummus with roasted cauliflower (a special) and also the shakshuka (baked eggs in tomato sauce) with feta and spinach; both very good but I was more partial to the hummus dish. I would have been VERY happy eating here several more times.  http://dna-hummusbistro.com/

 Luca

Small Italian place near our Airbnb that was well-reviewed on Yelp. We lucked out and got a table arriving before 6 on a Sunday evening. Lots of families here at this time. The tables turned around 6:30; kids left and couples or groups arrived. We split a salad with grilled vegetables and ricotta salata; mains included spaghetti carbonara and margherita pizza. The pizza was good though a bit bland — probably should have tried one with interesting toppings. The carbonara was DELICIOUS. Bill came to 58 euros with a bottle of wine.  http://luccadue.nl/

Cafe De Reiger

After touring the Anne Frank House, I checked the Yelp app for nearby restaurants and found Cafe De Reiger in Jordaan neighborhood.  The small restaurant is a charming space with wood floors, warm lighting, and an attractive old bar in the front room.  The bartender greeted us and gave us the choice of the front room with the bar or the back room — we picked the back room as it was a little more lively at the moment. Everything on the refined pub menu appealed to me and I was set to order a fish until I saw the steak and fries arrive at the adjacent table — we both ordered this instead.  Steak was cooked perfectly and the fries were hot, crisp, and salty, served with a creamy pepper sauce. I ordered a bottle of red wine as well, though I cannot remember which one… it was quite good though! Looks like a great place for a beer lover. They do not take reservations.

Pho Viet

Small casual Vietnamese place near our Airbnb on Haarlemerstraat. Nothing amazing but very good pho. It was perfect for us for a late dinner after Keukenhof when we were tired, my mom starting to feel a bit sick, and soup sounded perfect to both of us. Fresh, hot, and tasty… plenty of condiments to provide more spice and seasoning. Take-out available, too.

Stach

Gourmet shop down the street from my Airbnb on Haarlemerstraat, though they have several locations throughout the city. Ok… BEST chocolate of my life!! If you come across one, make sure you pick up some of their beautifully packaged chocolate bars. The popcorn peanut butter was my favorite but all that I tried were amazing.  Good stroopwafels, too!  http://stach-food.nl/

Toki

Excellent coffee in Jordaan near Haarlemerstraat. http://www.tokiho.amsterdam/

ACCOMODATION

I stayed in a VERY lovely studio apartment in Jordaan on Haarlemerstraat. GREAT location, and the hosts were both kind and interesting. I LOVED this neighborhood and would definitely stay here again or somewhere else in the neighborhood if it wasn’t available. https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/17252191

TRANSPORTATION

AMSTERDAM GALLERY

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